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A relaxed start
After the long journey we first caught up on sleep – almost 12 hours! At around 9:30 we started the day in a relaxed way. For breakfast we had fresh pastries from the local bakery, with just milk. As the German saying goes: milk wakes up tired men (and women)! Freshly fed, we set off for Chinatown.
The Chinatown Heritage Centre: a window into 1950
We actually only wanted to stroll around, but the Chinatown Heritage Centre on Pagoda Street completely captivated us. It is housed in original shophouses and shows honestly what life looked like for immigrants around 1950. The contrast with our European living conditions is huge.
Especially impressive – and depressing at the same time – was the extreme lack of space:
• Survival on 2 x 2 metres: We saw the tiny “cubicles” where often a whole family of ten lived. The ceilings in the kitchens were so low that you could hardly be taller than 1.50 m.
• Hygiene and daily life: The cooking areas were often right next to the washing place and the bucket toilets. Around 1950, up to 50 people sometimes lived in one of these narrow houses.
• The dark side: The museum also shows the hard reality of the “Samsui women” with their red headscarves, who had to toil on building sites, as well as the gloomy opium dens and the story of the great flood of 2 December 1955.
Thanks to modern technology, the language barrier in the museum was no problem: we had the films translated directly into German with the Live Transcribe app. We saw old sewing machines, workshops of carpenters and shoemakers, and even a lizard roastery. The tools of the street barbers and letter writers of that time were also on display – professions that shaped Chinatown in the years that followed.
Highlight of the day: meeting the lucky charms
Right after the museum we dived back into the colourful bustle on the street and came across a very special group: men in magnificent traditional costumes!
• There were historical warriors in impressive armour and figures in bright red robes that symbolise good fortune.
• They held golden ingots (yuanbao) and red envelopes for the year 2026 in their hands – symbols of prosperity and success in the new year.
It was a great moment to experience this festive tradition so close up!
Cultural exchange at HarbourFront
Later we took the bus to HarbourFront. While we were strolling through the mall, something wonderful happened: by chance we met a group of local Singaporeans who are deaf too! It was a fantastic moment of spontaneous cultural exchange through our sign languages. It is always lovely to see how quickly you can connect, no matter where in the world you are.
The end of the day
We went back by train and bus. In our bags we had tasty food for home, including bright red dragon fruits. After all the kilometres on foot we are now properly tired, but happy.
This entry connects the deep history with the lively joy you can feel in Chinatown today.
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